Thursday 31 July 2008

The people in the steeple ...

Thursday 31st July
The Parish Church of The Holy Trinity, St Andrews
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The original building of Holy Trinity Church was completed in 1412 and its huge wooden galleries were installed to hold some 3000 people. By the end of the 19th century the buildings were thought to be old fashioned and the church was almost entirely rebuilt except for the Tower, the west wall and a number of pillars on the north side of the church, all which survive from the 15th century.



This Tower which houses the carillon dates back to 1412 and is certainly the oldest tower we will be visiting on our tour. The first 15 bells of the carillon here were dedicated on St Andrew's Day, 1926; a further two bells were added in 1938 and then six more in 1962 which meant that the chime officially became a carillon. The newest bells were added in 1998 which brought the total to 27 bells and enabled a greater variety of music to be played. This carillon belongs to the church and ALL the bells were cast by John Taylor & Company of Loughborough.



Access to the tower is through a small door in one corner of the church and the stone staircase is very narrow and winds round somewhat precariously due to uneven steps and no handrail except for an old bell rope running down the centre!




There are approx 63 steps up to the clavier (it's hard to be exact when personal safety takes precedence over counting steps!) The clavier is very compact but takes some energy to play. Caroline particulalry apreciated the dummy Db & Eb pedals which act as good guides - this is what Caroline found she missed at Perth.



Caroline was invited by Christine Gascoigne, the Holy Trinity Carillonneur, to play for around 15 minutes (between clock chimes). Caroline really enjoyed playing this carillon which she described as 'quirky'. The mechanism is very noisy and some of the wires may need tightening; Caroline said it was fun and that she wasn't always sure if a bell was going to play or not - there was a particular knack to some of them.



This blue box in the clavier room houses the automatic action for the curfew bell which has been rung for centuries at 8pm every evening except Sundays. It used to be the job of the Beadle to ring the curfew bell by hand which meant that he was ringing for a full 15 minutes. Since 1961 the ringing has been mechanised and it now rings precisely 100 times each evening.



After a short recital, Christine showed us up to the bells - another 18 steps up.




Next Christine guided us up another 25 steps for fansatic views of St Andrews from the top of the tower

And here's Caz who can't stand heights (?!) looking out over St Andrews with Christine who pointed out all the important landmarks.



We'd like to thank Christine very much for her welcome and for showing us around the carillon tower.

On this visit we were once again accompanied by Ian Cassells (Perth Carillonneur) and Joyce who took us on a fabulous mini tour of St Andrews AND treated us to a lovely lunch again.
Ian took us to the cooling shade of the Quadrangle of St Andrews University. We had a peek into St Salvator's Chapel which houses a magificent organ.

John Knox (Reformation) preached here as, indeed, he did at Perth but below is the actual pulpit he stood in whereas in Perth the pulpit he used has long gone.

After lunch we took a stroll down towards the beach past the ruins of St Andrews Castle ...


...and ruins of the cathedral opposite which was pulled down during the reformation. Much of the stone from the cathedral was sold in oder to build houses, so many of the houses in St Andrews are built out of the cathedral walls.

We walked down onto the beach and enjoyed a lovely cooliong breeze - as you can see it's been a bright, warm, sunny day.

No visit to St Andrews would be complete without a piper!


After saying our farewells to Ian and Joyce and thanking them once again for thier hospitality and very informative tour, we embarked on a three hour drive (it should have been two but Glasgow rush hour slowed us down) to Dumbarton where we will be visiting the carillon at 12:30 before driving to Kilmarnock for 3pm. Tomorrow evening sees us making the long drive down to Newcastle so any further blog entries are unlikely to be posted now until Saturday morning!


Crossing the Forth Bridge earlier and hitting some welcome rain to cool us down - get the idea we've been a bit warm lately?!

Wednesday 30 July 2008

A-peeling in Perth ...

Wednesday 30th July 2008

St John's Kirk, Perth


The Kirk was consecrated in 1242 but there has been a building on the site from well before that time. It stands in the centre of Perth and is a 'working church'. The Kirk is steeped in history not least because it is the church where the reformation started. It also boasts the only example of a medieval wooden spire in Scotland - possibly in the Uk? Most wooden spires were either replaced or burnt down. There are also 5 different levels of bell ringing history to be seen here dating from 1340.


The bell tower was designed to house just four swinging bells not a carillon hence the loovered windows are smaller than you would normally find on a carillon tower.



Team Carillon arrived at St John's Kirk at around 11am and met up with Perth's carilloneur, Ian Cassells. Everyone at St John's was excited to have a guest carilloneur to play a recital and before ascending a very narrow, winding staircase to the clavier room, we were all treated to coffee and cakes by the Beadle, Tom Adam.


St John's Kirk houses more bells than any other building in Britain, 63 in total and Ian showed us a collection of histotic bells (centuries old) which hang on a frame inside the church. It's possible to play a tune on these bells which Ian demonstrated.




Here's Ian leading the way up to the tower through a small door in what looks like one of the Kirk's four main pillars.



This is the porthole through which the bells are lifted into the tower - it's a long way down!



This is the bourdon bell - the largest - which can be played in several different ways including being part of the carillon, the clock chime and can be swung.



The bells with double clappers indicate that they are dual purpose i.e are part of the carillon AND the clock chime. Just as at the previous carillon, the bell tower is owned by the town not the church.


There are 70 steps up to the clavier room, the bells are just above. The clavier is situated next to the clock mechanism just as in the Kirk of St Nicholas.

The clavier is compact and light to play but, according to Caroline, is extra hard work due to the position of the seat to the pedals.


Caroline played a full hour's recital of pieces ranging from hymns to opera.

Down in the church it is difficult to hear the bells when they are being played. Outside, however, the bells have a beautiful bright tone. Ian was particularly pleased to have the opportunity to hear the bells from the outside himself. The Kirk saw a good number of visitors while we were there and the carillon bells were clearly apreciated by those sitting having 'al fresco' refreshements nearby.

After the recital Caroline was able to climb to the very top of the Kirk and walk around outside just below the spire and I thought she couldn't stand heights! Photos of that to follow.
Team Carillon would like to take this opportunity to thank St John's Kirk for such a warm welcome and would particularly like to thank Ian and Joyce for their generosity in providing several hours of excellent hospitality in Perth, fantastic food, drink, conversation and entertainment. A good time was had by all!

The team are now relaxing in Kinross ready for a drive to St Andrews in the morning.

Tuesday 29 July 2008

It rings a bell ...

Tuesday 29th July
The Kirk of St Nicholas, Aberdeen

What a fabulous visit we had today! We arrived at The Kirk of St Nicholas around midday and met up with Dr Authur Winfield who was able to take Team Carillon up to the tower to see the clavier AND the bells; both areas not normally open to visitors. We didn't actually count the number of steps up to the clavier room but there were a fair few - a lot less than Loughborough, though. The higher we climbed, the more narrow the steps became. The Clavier is situated next to the clock mechanism and, although the clock chimes are not activated at the moment we could see and hear the clock mechanism at work.

This tower houses the largest carillon in Britain; the carillon belongs to the city not the church.

Caroline makes her way up to the clavier room and the bell tower. Once through the door at the top of this staircase we had to cross a narrow balcony overlooking the north transept (see pics below) and then stairs become much narrower open wooden flights.

Caroline inspects the clavier.
The clavier is more compact than Loughborough in as much as the batons are slightly closer together and slightly shorter in length. Caroline says it is a much lighter clavier to play than Loughborough which allowed for greater expression when playing.

Caroline is invited to play a piece. She chooses 'Prelude No. 5' Van Den Gehyn, the music for which she just happened to be carrying with her!

Caroline made it up the even narrower steps to the bell tower but only just and only for a few seconds. There is another flight of steps going up another level but the whole of Team Carillon declined the offer much to Dr Winfield's relief!


Team Carillon make their way back across a narrow gantry type walkway

View looking down from the narrow gantry to the showpiece of the North Transept


This beautiful stained glass window, designed by Shona McInness, was installed in the North Transept in 1990 when it was refurbished by the Oil Industry; amongst the things depicted are the famous oil rigs.

Once back down again we were treated to a fantastic tour of the place which included a viewing of one of the Kirk's greatest treasures - four large needlework panels, sewn in the 17th century by Mary Jamesone, daughter of George Jamesone the earliest known Scottish portrait painter. The panels depict various scenes from the old testament but set in 17th century Aberdeen!

Although The Kirk is steeped in over 800 years of fascinating history, it not only looks back, it looks to the future, too, with its major conservation, restoration and development project which is now in progress. The project seeks to 're-establish the Kirk as the very heart of Aberdeen and the community at large.' The Kirk is a 'symbol of Scottish heritage' and the project aims to provide the community not only with a place of worship but a space for entertainment, leisure and education, too. You can read more about the project at: http://www.themitherkirkproject.org.uk. The East Kirk has recently been home to archaeologists and there is evidence of the area having had a place of worship (though not necessarily Christian) on this site since as early as the 9th century - perhaps even before - there are links to the archaeologists regular reports on the website.

We'd like to thank Dr Winfield and the staff at The Kirk for giving us such a warm welcome and informative tour. We wish the project every success and look forward to returning in the future.

And now ...

We are settling down for a 'good night's kip' and looking forward to a two hour jouney first thing in the morning so that we arrive at Perth in plenty of time for Caroline's full recital which will be around midday.

Monday 28 July 2008

Trevor hits the right note ...

Sunday 27th July

View from the top of Loughborough's Carillon overlooking the Band Stand

After a legendary lunch at Lynroys http://www.lynroys.com/ Team Carillon donned their tour T-shirts and made their way to the Carillon. It was a baking hot afternoon in Queens Park, Loughborough when the Mayor of Charnwood arrived at Loughborough's War Memorial Carillon to mark the end of Carillon Week. We were all treated to a phenomenal performance by Bournville's Trevor Workman who gave us an hour's recital of carillon music ranging from Chopin to Abba. As soon as we can load up some video clips we will show you just what an outstanding carillonneur Trevor is - amazing! Meanwhile here are some still photographs from the day.


Mayor and Mayoress of Charnwood, Councillor Stephen Campbell and Councillor Mrs Brenda Seaton pose with Team Carillon in Loughborough's Queens Park.

Trevor inspecting his Carillonneurs' blisters!


90 winding steps up to the clavier room


View of Loughborough Parish Church from the top of Loughborough's Carillon tower


Monday 28th July

Team Carillon arrived in Aberdeen at about 4pm after a leisurely but hot journey. It rained as we left Greater Manchester but soon dried up into glorious sunshine the further north we drove. That was until we reached the outskirts of Aberdeen where we encountered quite dense fog. Our accommodation is in the city centre literally 5 minutes walk from St Nicholas' Church which houses the carillon. The church opens at midday and that's when we're hoping to arrive to take some photographs.

Meanwhile as I write two members of Team Carillon are fast asleep - both snoring but one considerably louder than the other - it must be all the excitement!






Sunday 27 July 2008

Striking a chord with the Mayor ...

Here we are at last - the launch of the tour 'proper'!

Two thirds of Team Carillon arrived in Loughborough yesterday in order to dispatch the children to grandparents' and to meet up with Caz, already in Loughborough. It was a rather warm and sedate journey down in our Morris 1000 Traveller, 'Harry Gamlin', avoiding motorways and sticking to a rather fine scenic route through Buxton, Bakewell and Matlock Bath, so we arrived too late for the Saturday Carillon recital in Loughborough but Caroline said that Anthony from St Helens played fantastically. Caroline brought news of more confirmed visits and opportunities to play various Carillons so it looks like we'll be able to get around most of them over the next fortnight (except Ireland and NI which we'll do later in the year). Sadly, we think that London will be 'no go' this time - it appears that the Carillon there isn't played and, possibly, for health and safety reasons isn't available for a visit or for playing - we are trying to get the story on that one so will keep you posted. If anyone knows anything about London's Carillon feel free to let us know by way of comment, thanks.

We now have the following confirmed visits:
Tuesday 29th July - Aberdeen
Tuesday 5th August - St Helens
Friday 8th August - Spalding
Saturday 9th August - Saltley
Saturday 16th August - Bournville

We now just await hearing as to whether we can visit Parkgate. We are also hoping to visit the Bell Foundry in Loughborough during the the second week.

So, what happens today:

The tour launches at this afternoon's recital in Loughborough (Trevor Workman, Bournville). There's a Loughborough Echo photo call at 3:30pm and a visit by the Mayor to mark the end of Loughborough's Carillon Week (photos & video to appear in next blog entry all being well). Then we're off ...
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By the way - we're not doing the tour in 'Harry Gamlin' - we have the loan of a nippy little Fiat Panda complete with 'go faster' stripes and that runs on diesel - thanks Dad!

Wednesday 23 July 2008

Play it again, Caz!

Here's how it's done!

This is Caroline during a recital at Loughborough's Carillon in May 2008. Notice how noisy it is in the clavier room and how the bells are struck fractionally after the batons and foot pedals are played so Caroline can't hear what she's actually playing at the time ... and just imagine all those tons of bells just above her head!

Want to play the bells yourself? You can! Click onto the virtual carillon: http://www.loughboroughcarillon.com/virtual-carillon-play-the-bells/

Look out for videos of other Carillons during the tour.

Tuesday 22 July 2008

There's a chime and a place ...

Only a few days to go now and the first week's itinerary is taking shape:
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Sunday 27th, after the launch at Loughborough's Carillon Team Carillon will start to make their way up to Aberdeen. After an overnight stay in NW England on the Sunday, Team Carillon will set out early on Monday 28th for the long drive North - approx 340 miles - thankfully we can all share the driving!
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Tuesday 29th will see us visitng Aberdeen Municipal Carillon, St Nicholas’ Church, Back Wynd, Aberdeen. No confirmation regarding access as yet.
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Wednesday 30th will see us making a 90 mile journey to visit St. John’s Kirk Carillon, St. John’s Street, Perth. Caroline has been invited to play a recital here - time will be confirmed.
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Thursday 31st will herald another early start as we drive to St Andrews to the Holy Trinity Parish Church Carillon, South Street (access confirmed, time to be arranged) and then drive approx 100 miles to Dumbarton.
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Friday 1st at 12:30 we will be visiting St Patrick’s Church, Dumbarton where we will be taking photographs. The carillon here is due to be undergoing some restoration work shortly so may not be playable and we are informed 'doesn't look its best' at the moment.
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Friday 1st we will also be visiting St Marnock’s Parish Church, St Marnock Street, Kilmarnock (access not confirmed as yet) afterwhich we will be travelling approx 160 miles back down to Newcastle for an overnight stay.
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Saturday 2nd we hope to visit Edith Adamson Memorial Carillon, Civic Centre, Newcastle and then we will drive down to York.
Sunday 3rd sees our visit to York Minster where Caroline will have the opportunity to play some hymns.
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After Sunday the tour is still somewhat sketchy but watch this space ...

Friday 18 July 2008

Tuning up for tour launch ...

Loughborough' s War Memorial Carillon Tower


Loughborough's Carillon Week (Monday 21st - Sunday 27th July 2008) is an annual event which commemorates the anniversary of its opening with a week of special recitals by guest carillonneurs:

Monday at 13:00 - Michael Boyd
Tuesday at 13:00 - Caroline Sharpe
Wednesday at 13:00 - Ian Cassells
Thursday at 13:00 - Lynne Morgan
Friday at 13:00 - Caroline Sharpe
Saturday at 13:00 - Anthony Brookes
Sunday at 15:30 - Trevor Workman

The Carillon is open to visitors and you can watch the carillonneurs at work and even brave climbling up past the bells onto the viewing platform for excellent views over the whole town. WARNING! If you want to climb to the top during a recital you will need ear plugs!!!


Team Carillon will all be at the final recital on the Sunday afternoon so what better time and place to commence the tour.

Wednesday 16 July 2008

Ding Dong! It's a date ...

Caroline will play the Carillon at York Minster on Sunday August 3rd!

York Minster houses the newest Carillon in the country and, not only that, the Minster is the only Cathedral in England to house a carillon. The carillon here is so new (i.e. installed Spring 2008) that there are still various adjustments being made to it but we are pleased to report that Caroline has received an informal invitation to play it during our 2008 Tour.

Read more about York Carillon here:

http://www.carillons.org/york/

Monday 14 July 2008

Once upon a chime ...

What's the Carillon Tour?

Team Carillon aim to raise the profile of this magnificent, often neglected, instrument. People just generally don't know about Carillons unless, of course, you happen to have one in your home town or city - even then, many local people have no idea about how the bells are actually played. Some think that the bells are mechanically operated and, indeed, at some Carillons they are, whilst others think that the tunes are a recording which is amplified through speakers at the top of the bell tower.

There are 16 Carillons throughout the Uk & Ireland and Team Carillon aim to visit all of them before the end of 2008 and Caroline is hoping to be able to play as many as she can on the way around - 'just a little tinkle' she says! Playing a recital, especially at the larger Carillons, can be as strenuous as having a workout so to play a whole programme at all of them would be unrealistic. Some may not even be playable we just don't know ...neither do we know if we can gain access to all of them but we're going to have fun trying.

Team Carillon will set out on Monday 28th July with a long drive up to Aberbeen, the most northerly Carillon in Scotland.

You can read more about carillons at: http://carillons.org/ see if there's one near you that you can visit. If not, just sit back and enjoy the virtual tour on this blog. (Having just checked out pictures of some of the bell towers, I think I might be developing a bell phobia and fear of heights, too!)

More about the tour preparations and the dates when we'll be at a Carillon near you coming soon!

Sunday 13 July 2008

My ding-a-ling!

What IS a Carillon?
A Carillon is a musical instrument - the heaviest of all instruments and certainly not one you can carry about with you! It consists of a stationary set of bells mounted in a bell tower, usually in a church or some kind of municipal building; there are usually between 23 - 50 tuned bells although in the USA you can find Carillons with up to 70 bells (they always have to supersize everything!). A Carillon differs greatly from ordinary church bells; Carillon bells do not swing and are struck by clappers which are activated by levers and wires attached to a clavier which is a baton keyboard incorporating foot pedals, too. The keyboard batons are usually struck with the fist and, of course, the foot pedals with the feet (that figures!). The keyboard is set out as a piano keyboard and the carillonneur plays tunes by either striking one bell after another to create a melody or by playing several bells together creating chords.

This picture shows Caroline playing the clavier at Loughbrough's War Memorial Carillon.


There are 90 steps up to the clavier room at Loughborough's Carillon and there are 47 bells mounted in the tower directly above Caroline's head. Just to give you an idea of the scale of Loughborough's Carillon - the heaviest bell weighs 4.25 tonnes, is 6' 4" in diameter and 5' tall - so, not ideal for someone who hates heights and has a phobia of big bells!



You can read more about this particular carillon by logging on to: http://www.loughboroughcarillon.com

So, hopefully, you get the idea - it's all about climbling lots steps and getting up close and personal with big bells. Come back soon to read more about the 2008 Carillon Tour and to learn more about the Carillons of the UK and Ireland.